Of dirty bitches, fucking tourists and mint tea on the house. Or: why Morocco was a struggle.

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It’s hard to find the words and structure a balanced blog post about something that has influenced this travel as much as the following. To write about something so close to my heart. To properly explain the why’s and because’s. I don’t think I can. Yes, I’ve traveled through the country for longer than just a couple of days, but still, I’m aware that my experiences are a glimpse of the overall country. And yet, five minutes into a conversation with another female traveler the topic would inevitably fall on the one I’m going to try to talk about in this post: street harassment.

When I first came to Morocco I posted a quick note on my tumblr, saying how I was largely left alone. How everyone had been super friendly. That changed pretty much the second I hit the “post” button. After that I was almost constantly harassed on the streets. It didn’t matter if I was by myself or with another group of girls. The only time it slightly lessened was when I was walking with a guy (or more) next to me.

I’m not naive. Of course I was expecting a certain kind of attention on the streets. Before I left I was warned by many people. I got told what to do, what not to do, how to behave, what to wear. By strangers and by my family and close friends. Most of it was common sense to me. Sure, I wouldn’t be wearing hot pants. I’d cover up. Respect the country, the culture and the religion. It’s me, after all, who’s the visitor.
I’m the kind of traveler who loves nothing more than to walk through a city with her eyes wide open, a smile on her face and a friendly word quick on her lips. I want to greet and interact with locals and aimlessly roam the streets so I can discover hidden spots.

Morocco quickly taught me the exact opposite.

You might want to know how a country can do this? Let me explain by telling you a couple of stories.

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I started my trip in Tangier, where I lived in an apartment in a good part of the Ville Nouvelle for three weeks. In Tangier especially, it was almost impossible to walk down some streets or through the Medina without getting shouted at, without kissing noises being made as I walked past. Without “Oh hello beautiful!” or “Sexy lady!” or “Oooh, spice girls!” or “Hello pretty flower!”.
I’m not exaggerating. I kinda wish I was, but I could not make these things up, even if I tried.

For the most part I figured out that ignoring them altogether was the best tactic. To just keep on walking if possible and they’d soon leave me alone.

Sometimes though, you aren’t walking. Sometimes you cannot outrun them. Sometimes you’re just sitting on a wall in a small park, enjoying a cool breeze and talking to two other people. And then, when an older man comes up to you and starts talking, and you ignore him, you get shouted at.

“Dirty bitch! Dirty! Dirty bitch! You bring Ebola to us Moroccans! Dirty bitch! Go back home and leave us Moroccans alone!”

How ironic, right? To get told to leave them alone when that’s what you’ve been doing all along? Right when it happened I was just taken aback by the obvious aggression aimed my way. Later, when I thought more about the words he used, the way he looked at us and the way this entire incident made me feel, an odd sense of sadness overcame me.

But that’s not all.

Sometimes you’re just walking through a souk and a young guy comes up to you and asks you if you’re married. And if you ignore him he starts shouting. And if you don’t and say that you are, in fact married, he’ll attach himself to you and say “Doesn’t matter, I’ll be the second husband” and hassles you for way too long.

I soon arrived at a point where I’d just block out everything and I cannot even begin to tell you how sad this made me. It’s devastating because I love nothing more than to interact with locals. I love nothing more than to throw a quick smile at random strangers who pass me on the street. But in Morocco I felt like I couldn’t. In Morocco, if I smiled at someone they’d often see it as an invitation to ask more rude or inappropriate questions.

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One morning I was walking through the souk in Rabat. I was just thinking how different Rabat was to Tangier. People were friendlier, I got hassled less and found myself breathing easier, smiling more. I saw a small girl crying in front of one of the stands and smiled brightly at her, hoping she’d stop crying and smile back. Hoping to be a small distraction. In the same second I gave my attention to this child, a Moroccan teenager walked past me and patted my shoulders down to my wrist. I quickly pulled it away, completely taken aback by what just happened. Is me smiling at a small girl an invitation to be touched however they please? I threw him a dirty look but everything moved so fast and a second later he was gone and I was standing there with an odd feeling all over my body, my skin crawling, and a sour mood replacing all the positive thoughts I just had.
Two streets further I was still stewing about what just happened when a street vendor looked at me, whistled and said “Ooh, you are beautiful! Welcome to Morocco!” And I couldn’t help myself. I didn’t stop. I didn’t look at him. I just kept walking and before I could help myself I said “Shut up!”
I kept walking and only heard an outraged “What???” shouted back at me.

I immediately felt bad. I immediately regretted it. This is not who I am. This is not who I want to be. This is not who I want to allow the men in this country to turn me into. And yet, the frustration boiled over.
Dear street vendor, if you really only wanted to welcome me to your country, I’m sorry. But please also know that this is not how you make us feel welcome. This is how you objectify us. This is how you make us more uncomfortable than you could possible know.

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On my way to find my hostel in Essaouira I was approached by a young man who offered me a hostel to stay in. I told him no thanks and that I already had a hostel. He goes on “It’s a very nice hostel, I can show you, follow me!” To which I replied “No thanks, I’ve already booked a hostel.” Then he flipped. “Racist!” “Excuse me?” “You’re a big racist!” I should have stopped and ignored him then, but sometimes I just can’t. So I asked him how already having a hostel makes me a racist. He obviously couldn’t explain it to me so he just declared one more time “You’re a big racist!”

A day or two later I was walking through the souks and stopped to look at a little bag. I picked it up, turned it over and the vendor approached me. “I make you a good price!” I told him that it was alright, I was just having a look. He went on and asked me how much I want to pay, we could haggle about it. I said it was quite alright, I was only looking and wasn’t even sure if I wanted it to begin with. Again, friendliness turned into aggression so quickly it made my head spin, and the vendor shouted at me “If you don’t want it, don’t touch it!”

It’s sad, you know. Sad and kind of stupid. Because even if I would go home later that night and decide that I did want that bag after all, I would definitely not come back and buy it from him. All the stalls in the souks basically sell the same things anyways and I understand that competition between them is brutal, but this is definitely not how you make a sale. I’ve never been annoyed by people trying to ask me to check out their shops. This is how they make their living, after all. And even though it can be exhausting to be constantly asked to look at this, or go into that store, it’s all fine by me. It’s the quick and sudden aggression that sometimes followed I have issues with.

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In Taghazout I was around when a british girl, who worked in my hostel, opened the door to welcome a group of guys who’d booked a stay there. They didn’t find the hostel right away so a local showed them the way. The girl said thank you to the local, the guys walked in and before she closed the door behind them she turned around and asked if the locals had, by any chance, seen a little dog. It was the hostel dog that had gone missing that day and everyone was worried. The local turned around and said “Fuck you, bitch!”
Why? Your guess is as good as mine. Perhaps he thought she should pay him for bringing her new customers, but since they had already booked this hostel anyways, what’s the point? If he wanted money for showing them the way, he should have said something to the guys, but it’s easier to lash out on women, right?

I also stopped asking people for the way. I knew that most of the time they’d expect money from me in return. If it’s a tour I agreed on, that’s fine. But if you only ask if you should turn left or right, and then are expected to pay over 10€ for that little piece of advice, then no, I won’t ask.
Locals would also attach themselves to us as unwanted, unasked for tour guides. Just telling them that it was unnecessary usually didn’t deter them so I took on to being super frank. I’d tell them right away that it was lovely of them to want to tell us a little bit about their city but that I have a travel guide and that I don’t have the money to pay them. They usually left even before completely finished that sentence.
I had a map on my phone and knew where to walk, and yet, people would tell me where to go, where not to go and then get frustrated and angry when I wouldn’t take their advice.

In Marrakech I was right around the corner of a palace I wanted to see when I was approached by a young Moroccan who told me that the palace was right around the corner. I said thank you, and that I know. Then he touched my arm. I quickly yanked it away and told him in no uncertain terms to not touch me. I kept walking and heard him scream behind me “Fuck you, tourists! I hate tourists! Fuck you! Fucking tourists!”

How bizarre? If you hate tourists so much, why do you care in the first place? The only explanation I have for that is that he could have wanted money from us, for pointing out the obvious, yes, but it’s not like that never happened before.

Then there’s the issue of men “owning” the sidewalk. I’ve noticed quite quickly that men will often not even try to make room for me on the sidewalks. For some reason this made me incredibly angry. I’m a feminist. And I firmly believe in the fact that I not only have the same right as men do, but I also deserve a space on the sidewalk. Especially when it’s clearly big enough for the both of us. I’ll try to make space for you if I see and feel you doing the same. Until that happens I will continue to not go out of the way. The couple of bruises on my shoulders and arms are worth this. I will not make myself small for you.

All of these things make it hard and tiring to travel through Morocco as a woman. It’s the constant vigilance, that’s exhausting. The fact that I won’t have experiences as rich as they could have been, which sadden me beyond words.

Every time I meet other female travelers it’s one of the first topics being discussed. The guys can’t really understand it.
But when you get asked how much you cost for the second time, I think you have every right to flip out. To shout. To make a scene. To tell them in no uncertain terms that this is NOT okay. That it’s derogatory and disgraceful. How can this not be the main topic of discussion?

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Let me make one more thing very clear. I have also met the nicest, friendliest and most helpful men here. I have seen fathers lovingly dote on their daughters, I’ve seen young men help elderly women down the stairs or give them their seats. I’ve been treated with kindness. I’ve been offered free tea in a restaurant, and high fives when I came back to my regular dinner spot for the 3rd time in a row. I got joked with and smiled at.
And this makes this entire situation even sadder to me. Because of the actions of some people, I often don’t even notice anymore when others are nice to me. When they warn me to not walk down this alley because it’s a dead-end. When they give me back money because I handed them too much or when they genuinely just try to show me the way and I’m immediately wary and think “How much money will he want for this?”.

But still, it’s tough. Some days are harder than others. Sometimes, the frustration level is high. Some cities are more relaxed than others, sometimes it’s better being in a group, sometimes it’s worse. There’s no rhyme or reason to it. I embraced it as part of this experience, but sometimes it was almost unbearable. Sometimes I was so disgusted I could barely take it. Have I ever felt really unsafe? No. Have I been beyond annoyed to the point where I’d loved to scream and cry? Yes.

There are many possible explanations on why Moroccan men see and treat western women the way they do. We could blame it on the media, the pop music, or the poor command of the English language. I truly believe that sometimes people didn’t understand just how grave it can be if you call a young girl a “bitch” on the street. Is that an excuse though? No, I don’t think so.

I know that this post can be seen as a collection of negative examples. Of the single experience of a young girl who couldn’t deal out there in the big world. You are right, to a certain extent. These are my experiences. These are the stories that happened to me, but every single girl I’ve met along the way had stories just like mine. And yes, I am frustrated and saddened, but this trip has made me stronger in many regards. Trust me when I say that it’s not culture shock. It’s not the feelings of a scared little girl who’ve barely traveled before. It is not. I’ve been to many countries and I’ve seen people of many cultures get angry and frustrated but never have I felt this kind of aggression. Towards me and others. Never have I felt so unwelcome in a country.

Again, let me say one more time that you can, as a girl, travel to Morocco. You can walk through the souk by yourself, you can go have dinner by yourself, you can do it all. You don’t need someone with you. In fact, I urge you to. Just expect a certain level of harassment, but don’t let them get to you. Kill with kindness and you’ll emerge as a stronger, wiser, and better person in the end.

So please, travel to Morocco. The culture, the history, the architecture and the majority of the people are amazing.

Do it solo, do it as a girl. But be aware that it might be tiring.

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* pictures taken by Krystin Ross.

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Essentials: Morocco

I haven’t done one of those fashion advice posts in a loooong time. I never really had the need to but now I’m struggling again and I’m kinda astounded at the lack of inspiration out there. I’m also very surprised at the lack of appropriate clothing available.

I’ve browsed online shops for a while now and I found it very tough to find clothes I deemed appropriate.

Here’s my situation: I’m traveling to Morocco. In July and August. Morocco is a muslim country so I obviously want to respect that, which means I want to cover my knees and shoulders as much as possible. I’ve heard that it’s not absolutely necessary when you’re in touristy areas, but I’m pretty sure I won’t only move around those areas and I want to be prepared for all eventualities. And, most importantly, I don’t want to disrespect people in their own country. So there’s that. Then add in that it’s a country which gets very high temperatures during the summer, so it will be HOT. And I’m human, so of course I sweat. It’s not pretty, it seems almost impolite to talk about but it’s a natural reaction and part of human life. Still, I don’t want clothes that immediately show when and how much I sweat, so I’m looking for something that can conceal this as much as possible. Another important point is that I’ll be traveling. As lightly as possible. I don’t plan on taking a lot of clothes with me and I’m prepared to wash them myself if needed. I don’t know where and when I’ll be able to access a washing machine so the clothes I’m looking for need to travel well and be easily washable. This means all fancy fabrics are out. All things that crumple easily? Those are out too. I’m definitely not ironing anything while I’m away. And lastly: I don’t want to look like a complete hobo. At least not all the time. I’ve tried that and it’s comfortable and easy as hell, but that too, might give away the wrong impression. So here’s to no holey shoes and not wearing the same 3 T-Shirts for 6 weeks.
Let’s summarise this. I need:
* light, flowy fabric that travels well and washes easily
* clothes that fall past (or at least to) my knees and cover my shoulders
* colours that don’t stain after 5 minutes (looking at you, white and pastels).
And here’s what I found so far:
Morocco

1. Maxi dress | 2. Basic black or white T-shirts | 3. Eagles print pants | 4. Cotton Tote | 5. Basic light cardigan | 6. Persol sunglasses | 7. Maxi skirt | 8. Striped tank top | 9. Harem pants | 10. Birkenstock sandals | 11. Scarf

You can already see that I failed in some aspects. I just really enjoy the simplicity and freshness of white T-shirts but all in all this isn’t all that bad. Most of those items I already own, I only purchased the maxi dress and skirt, to add to my collection. I’m not big on wearing maxi- stuff at home because I feel like it makes me even taller, but it does suit me, I think, and I definitely need to get over myself. So that’s what I’m going to do this summer!

The road to Tanger

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Ladies and gentlemen, I have arrived.
It has only taken 3 days or so, but who’s counting?

So let me tell you about this odyssey a bit.

When I left Vienna on Saturday, I didn’t think much of it. I knew I had a relatively long journey ahead but it was all doable. Take the plane to Frankfurt, fly from Frankfurt to Casablanca on the same evening. Sleep in a hotel and catch a train to Tangier in the morning. Sounds easy enough, right? Right.

So I did fly to Frankfurt without problems, but in Frankfurt the nightmare started. Due to weight issues (they somehow reached the weight limit of the plane and had to offload even paying passengers (mind you, I was flying with staff/standby tickets, as usual)) I couldn’t get on that flight.
Good, not ideal but not too bad – yet.
So I got my ticket transferred to the next day (Sunday) and went to the lost and found to collect my suitcase. There the very friendly Lufthansa employee told me that due to airport regulations they won’t be able to access my suitcase anymore that day. The airport always closes around 11 and since it was already 10.40 or so there was no way that they could bring my suitcase from the plane to the lost and found. They gave me a little bag that contained a t-shirt to sleep in, some toiletries and wished me a good night.
So I sat at the airport and tried finding a hostel to spend the night. I called two but they were all already fully booked, then I called a third one and they had a free bed in an 8 bed dorm. For 65€. I actually laughed when I heard this. I asked the guy on the phone if he was serious but he just said that there was a lot going on in Frankfurt right now.
At this point I didn’t have much other possibilities. It was now around 11.45 or so and the last train from the airport to the city would leave at midnight. Fun times.
So I begrudgingly left the airport and spent the night in that hostel. It was nice enough – nothing special and nothing that would warrant a price of 65€ (with breakfast NOT included).
I spent Sunday roaming Frankfurt, which was a nice surprise – I probably wouldn’t have gone there any time soon and the old city is cute.
I also looked up prices for that night (just in case I couldn’t get on that flight again) and saw that the prices of that hostel ranged from 18-21€ per bed in dormitories, so I guess I was majorly ripped off that night. There’s not really a point in being angry about this now but let’s just say that Frankfurt didn’t make a very good impression on me (this only being one of the instances where I wasn’t too happy with that city).
So I went to the airport, caught a seat on that plane to Casablanca at the very last second and just kinda felt that my suitcase wouldn’t make it. I somehow just knew.

So i landed in Casablanca, after I went through customs it was now around 2am on Monday and I was tired and still in the same clothes from Saturday. I went to the baggage claim and I wasn’t even all that surprised when I couldn’t find my suitcase. A quick talk to the employee at the lost and found confirmed it. “Your suitcase is still in Frankfurt.”
Thanks a lot, Lufthansa.
But again, these things happen – and they’re way more likely to happen when flying standby than when you’re buying a regular ticket, please keep that in mind.

So this very friendly employee also told me that I wouldn’t get my suitcase before Tuesday. Awesome. I would also have to go to the airport and get it from there as they couldn’t deliver it to my adress.
Bonus: they didn’t have that little toiletry bag and couldn’t even give me a toothbrush or anything. I thought “Never mind. I’m staying at an Ibis anyways, they’ll have something for sure.” No, apparently Ibis hotels in Morocco don’t.

I fell asleep in my hotel room around 4.30am, woke around 7 to buy my train ticket and a toothbrush and went on the last leg of my journey. The train to Tangier should have taken a little under 5hours but ended up taking almost 7. Fun times, fun times.

Anyways, it’s now Tueday morning, I’m in my apartment in Tangier and it’s been lovely so far. Keeping a positive attitude has gone a long way. There’s not really anything I could have done differently anyways (apart from checking hostel prices online first before calling ahead blindly…. but you live and you learn).
I’m now sitting here waiting for a call from the airport to let me know when I can go and collect my suitcase. I feel like I’ve hyped up getting my suitcase so much now that I’ll be a bit disappointed once I get it. I’ll open it and see plain t-shirts and pants… but there’ll be fresh underwear in there too and that alone will be worth it ;)

So if anyone still thinks traveling is glamours, think of me at 3am in a hotel in Casablanca, hand washing my underwear with a tiny bar of soap. It isn’t. It really isn’t.

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Ten-twentytwo in a hostelroom in Philly

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It is odd how close power and vulnerability lie together.

Even though I’m traveling alone, I’m not really traveling alone. It has occurred to me that I often use the term traveling alone the same way I used it when I was 17 years old, fresh out of high school and traveling through Europe, alone with a friend. Alone, meaning that I did not travel with my parents. I wasn’t truly alone though.

I traveled alone to Thailand, Togo, and Tanzania. Sure, I did meet people right away though. How could I not, when I was living and working with them 24/7? So again, I was traveling alone, but never truly by myself.

I pride myself on the fact that I’m doing these things. I do travel alone. I make the plans by myself. I go there, not really expecting to meet new best friends, but people with more or less the same mindset. People I’ve never talked to before. And people I’ve barely talked to since.

This year is different though. Once again I’m traveling alone, but now, sitting in this hostel in Philadelphia, truly alone for the first time in…. forever?! This has a new meaning to me.

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But the real challenge is happening right now. Right here on my bunk bed in an all-girl dormitory in the heart of Philly. Do I dare go out and sit in a restaurant on my own? Hostesses do not badger me to eat at their establishment as they did when I was walking around with another person. I’m just a random girl in a plain T-shirt and holey cotton tote bag, roaming the streets by herself.

Do I dare go and strike up a conversation with the random guy down in the hostel lobby?

Do I dare be by myself and find peace?

Do I dare say, “Screw it!” and make new friends?

I will have to step out of my comfort zone either way, so it’s win-win and lose-lose. It’s both and it’s terrifying and exhilarating. It’s empowering and making me feel vulnerable. It’s thrilling. It’s learning more about myself with every step I take, every word I say. It’s thoughtless words and middle-of-the-night facepalms. It’s my life right now. Right in this second.

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(Authors Note: This was written right where I said it was (in a hostel room in Philly at 10.22pm) but somehow got lost in the incredible amount of blog drafts that piled up over the years.
I ended up going for dinner by myself the next day. I ended up saying ‘screw it’ and got a table for one in the secret garden of a very cute little restaurant, having a lovely chat with the waitress and eating an amazing salad. Thank you, Philly for teaching me so much about myself and my capabilities.)

Love is love.

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I went to the Vienna Pride Parade yesterday. And it was great.

It shouldn’t surprise anyone that I fully support gay rights. In my opinion, love is love and people should get the same rights for the same love. It’s as simple as that. And it should be.
Vienna is very good in marketing a picture of itself that presents the city as very open-minded, very progressive. We’ve got gay traffic light symbols, after all. How could we not be?

The truth is that we’re not as progressive as we’d like the world to believe we are. Gay marriage is not legal. Why? Who knows.

But yesterday? Yesterday it was great. The atmosphere was light and fun. Yes, it’s actually a demonstration but if all demonstrations could be this cheerful and colourful, the world would be a better place.

So we braved heavy rain and strong wind to show our support. And you should too. Do what you can, whenever you can. Speak up, let your voice be heard and maybe we’ll change the world this way.

We just might.

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